domenica 25 ottobre 2009

Angola and its contraddictions /Angola e le sue contraddizioni (Engl./Ital.)



English (down for italian )

It is not so many time that I'm in Angola and already many things catch my attention, first of all the fact that after just 7 years from the end of the civil war the democratization process leaded to the development and also to the “hard” capitalism.
If this process is made in the meaning to create more internal stability and better relationship with the international community is working but it looks contradictory if related to the local population.
It is positive because starts a campaign to get rid of the landmine; a disarm program, a process to increase the alphabetisation, a reconstruction process and a better health system (more or less because the best hospital are private!!); it is negative because increase the corruption in all the administrative -an not only- levels, the division between rich and poor and the “spoliation system” of natural resources to benefit administrative and politic clerks and the international community.
The willing of the government of increase the foreign investment, and have better relationship with foreign countries, leads to contracts with Europeans (Italian, French, Portuguese) or not-Europeans (Chine, American,..) companies that are allowed to use imported stock and workers...it means that while the country is concerned by a reconstruction process the biggest benefit doesn't go to local workers or sellers but to not-Angolan enterprises/workers. They
could say that the local workers are not trained -that it is true- but I think that the most important explanation is that it is easiest and cheapest to import workers instead of spending time and money in training local workers, and so producing local development.
Power of the globalization!!
This process of “foreign invasion” causes also an high increase of prices, impossible to catch up for the local workers -and the poor volunteers as I am-, and an increase of the corruption policy, even if the government made a plane to reduce it.
The idea of State and social responsibility seems to be postponed to a sort of “amoral familism” -where the family is an entity bigger that what we consider it-, not allowing a real development of a big part of the society, the one that has not possibility from the beginning.
A simple example of how the capitalism is leading Angola, and Africa, into a deep hole is the rubbish issue.
Before there wasn't rubbish-not-recyclable, every thing was natural of course, now with the power of the publicity and international companies (as coca-cola,...) the country is full of baggage and tins that are just throw out in the street or in holes in the land that after, when filled up, will be covered with soil, not considering that the rubbish is not biodegradable or that rats and other animals might be attracted by it.
In Luanda, the capital, is starting a process of rubbish collection but the idea of it has to be settled in the minds, and it is not easy...we can just remember as until now it is an hard issue in many European countries (as in Italy!!).
An other effect of the globalization is that a country that base is exportation (2nd country in Africa for exportation of crude after Nigeria) on the crude oil, has not structure to transform it and has problem of distribution of gasoline to the local population, that has to make lines of hours to get it or to buy at the black market.
Unknown is also the natural impact, for example in one area of extraction the coconut trees are dying without explanation, reducing the alimentary possibility of the local population (ex. In Mangue Grande, Zaire Region, North west of Angola). Is it linked with the extraction and factory of collecting and transport of crude?
The ecological impact is so unknown, big infrastructure are build but the externalities are not calculated and the local advice is not perceived by the “high level”. It is why, for example, many local persons say that the big high way, that Chinese companies are building, to link Luanda with the north will be ruined by the first rain season after it will be ended, because the soil putted to sustain asphalt is not good.
It seems to me that the development is leading the unconscious country on the same way of many East-Europe countries. As we are wondering from so long times, it is still open the question about which is the real result of the capitalism and open market system and also where they can lead a country, and a population, if uncontrolled and just based of the profit of someone -politics or companies- that is not doing the social and public interest.


Italiano
E' poco tempo che sto qui in Angola e molte cose mi hanno colpito, ma soprattutto come in soli 7 anni dalla fine della guerra civile, seguita a quella per l'indipendenza, il processo di democratizzazione sembra che abbia portato, da un lato, allo sviluppo, dall'altro, al capitalismo feroce.
Se il processo sembra giovare alla stabilità interna e alle relazioni internazionali del Paese, l'impatto con la popolazione locale è bivalente.
Positivo : processo di sminamento, programma di disarmo della popolazione civile, processo di pacificazione nazionale, aumento dell'alfabetizzazione, ricostruzione, aumento della sanità, etc.

Negativo: aumento del processo di corruzione, aumento del divario tra ricchi e poveri, aumento dei prezzi, sfruttamento delle risorse nazionali con poco vantaggio locale e molto per i ceti alti e di controllo e la comunità internazionale.
La volontà del governo di avere visibilità a livello internazionale, e di attirare investimenti esteri, conduce spesso a contratti con compagnie straniere che importano materiali e manodopera dall'estero, riducendo quindi il vantaggio economico locale e la disponibilità di posti di lavoro. Compagnie europee (italiane, francesi, portoghesi,...) e internazionali (molte delle quali cinesi) fanno si che i prezzi di generi di primo consumo aumentino a dismisura, e siano di difficile acquisto per la gente locale – e i poveri volontari come me-, e che aumenti anche la corruzione, anche se il governo si è impegnato a ridurla, a tutti i livelli, soprattutto a quelli medio-bassi -ad alti livelli già esisteva-.
Il senso dello stato – con una famiglia molto più ampia di quella da noi concepita- e il senso del dovere civile o sociale viene sostituito da familismo amorale, nel quale l'elemento maschile gioca il ruolo predominate.
Un esempio stupido di come il capitalismo ed il commercio internazionale -non controllati e forse anche se fossero controllati- stiano rovinando l'Angola, e l'Africa, ci viene dato dal fatto che nonostante l'aumento di fattori inquinanti (imballaggi, lattine,...) non si sia ancora riusciti a trovare una valida alternativa al classico buco nel terreno dove l'immondizia viene gettata e che una volta pieno viene ricoperto di terra. Elemento che, fatto vicino alle case, porta ratti e malattie, soprattutto quando per caso va ad inquinare le falde acquifere.
In Luanda si tenta ora di attuare un processo di raccolta ma il problema oltre che logistico è “mentale”, va spiegato e fatto accettare alla popolazione che non è corretto gettare le cose per strada o interrarle.
Tutto ciò richiede tempo per essere assimilato -ancora non è stato ben compreso in Italia!!- ma è necessario per ridurre un impatto che potrebbe essere pagato caro dalle nuove generazioni angolane e africane, già gravate da molti pesi.
Altro fattore sconvolgente è il fatto che un paese che ha il 90% delle sue esportazioni basate sul petrolio (secondo esportatore dopo la Nigeria) non disponga facilmente di benzina, e i suoi abitanti debbano fare la fila per ora qualche giorno della settimana davanti al benzinaio o ricorrere al mercato nero. Il greggio viene estratto ovunque e poi esportato, raffinato all'estero e addio, non torna più se non con difficoltà e a caro prezzo.
E' osceno come questi paesi non si siano ancora riusciti a liberare dal giogo di grandi compagnie petrolifere che infioccano di dollari i politici e fanno il loro comodo della maggiore risorsa nazionale di alcuni paesi come Angola, Nigeria,etc.
L'inquinamento e l'impatto ecologico che l'estrazione comporta non sono ancora calcolati, attualmente nella costa nord-ovest del paese (Mangue Grande, etc- Regione Zaire-) tutti le palme da cocco stanno morendo senza speranza e così sembra che stia accadendo anche ad altri alberi locali, e questa è proprio una della zone di estrazione del petrolio in Angola, può che essere che sia legato..può essere che non, ma certo il dubbio resta molto grande...anche perché, chiaramente, qui è molto facile sottrarsi a norme di sicurezza e norme sull'ambiente.
Anche le grandi costruzioni moderne non si curano molto dell'impatto locale, ed opere come la grande strada che deve portare da Luanda a tutti i centri nevralgici del nord del Paese sembra essere un immensa spianata di terra rossa, in futuro da ricoprire con asfalto, che viene aperto a suon di ruspe da una partnership cinese. L'asfalto avrà come base un letto di terriccio e arena che i locali dicono non reggerà mai e poi mai, nonostante l'asfalto, alle piogge torrenziali della stagione estiva – questa da ottobre a febbraio, stag. Delle piogge- ..oltre al fatto che per mettere questa terra si siano aperte cave e si stia sottraendo terreno in altri luoghi...insomma anche questa un partita tutta aperta.
Cosa comporti lo sviluppo -non controllato e ponderato- è del resto una domanda che ci stiamo oramai ponendo da tempo anche in Europa con riferimento a noi stessi, la soluzione al dilemma tarda a venire.

(In the picture/Nella foto: Tombocu, Home-made brick-owen, Forno per mattoni)

giovedì 15 ottobre 2009

Arriving in Soyo (north west of Angola)

Here i'm, finally, in Soyo (Zaire region)...the place where i'll work for 6 months.
The travel was crazy, being early in Luanda airport i missed the flight bcs here you don't have screan or something like this, and it is ok, you expect that..but also there is just a person that in front of the door, where the bus is waiting, calls:soyo soyo, like this.
So the flight went without me but with my baggage...good way to start my day.
Ok don't worry, i start to talk with the person in charge of the flight, that said me:"Yes Madam i saw that you were not ther but"...But what???Did you look for the missing persons?? No, iIdidn't lost my self control i was just near to start to cry..and maybe for that the man decided to help me and other 2 persons like me...and just dais ok you wait the next flight, make again the check in and came back and take the flight...i made again tha battle to arrive in the check in desk but before,of course, i had to pass the secutiry control in the opposite way, and to explain why a stupid white girl lost here easy-to-catch-flight for Soyo...ok,i did all that and also the security control to came in again.
After that i wait the flight 3 hours more, and 1 more again bcs it was in late...after that i went in this survival-internal-flight and i started to pray that the airscrews will not follow down...and they didn't, wow!!
After 1 hour we arrived,i know that the flight should make 2 destinations but mine was first in the direction to the North..but not!! They dropped us in CABINDA(angolan exclave in RDG)...wow..So "Now you go out and you take one fligth for soyo"...my god, we were so scared,looking at this organisation, we not coul imagine when the first flight could be ready.
We -me and other angolans and "europeans"- waited 30 minuts and after came a man...ok f"ligthfor Soyo"..and we start to be in line..."Just 12 persons"...and we started to fight as sheep to pass between the half door open and the man that was counting just 12 people...I was in side-good to be woman and white sometime- ready fort the 12-place-2airscrew-fly with 2-white-american-redhair-raybansunglasses-pilots that drive us to soyo...just in time for lunch.

I met there my fantastic project leader, Lina, and we recuperate my suitcase -wonderful it was perfect, in the same situation in italy i could have back just the backpack empty!!- and after we went to lunch in an chinese enterprise (Lina is chinese)that works in soyo with jkust chines-workers...a wonderful part of China in Angola..that is really amazing, i though, while i was eating original chinese food(chines food for chines persons) for the first time in my life.

lunedì 12 ottobre 2009

il pozzo - the wheel (it.- engl.)


Come si fa a tirar su l'acqua dal pozzo??
Sembra facile, in linea di massima ci si presenta davanti l'immagine di un pozzo,carino e con fiori, e una corda -magari magari anche un argano- e un secchio...tu lo butti giù e lo tiri su pieno.
Sì,l'idilliaca immagine -magari con tanto di dolce donzella con fazzoletto in testa e gonnellone a fiori- è quella...ma la verità è ben diversa.
Tu butti giù il secchio -di plastica- con la corda, fai attenzione a non cadere nel pozzo-cisterna, e vedi che il dannatissimo secchio oscilla gentilmente sull'acqua senza riempirsi...allora giochi di polso per farlo andar giù ma niente, lui,sempre beato, continua ad oscillare sull'acqua,si inclina un pò e si riempie per due centimentri neanche.
Beh è la prima volta,no?!Proviamo ancora,tiri su,contenta della tua acqua e riempi un pò l'altro secchio.E poi tenti di nuovo...ma di nuovo niente. Ci deve essere un trucco, ne sono sicura, ma quale è??
Ho provato a pescare l'acqua, tipo rete a strascico, il risultato migliora ma non vado oltre ai 4 centimetri. Mi sono data per vinta e sono tornata al mio pc, che so -più o meno!!-come funziona.
Col tempo forse imparerò meglio :)

How can you get water from a wheel?
In the occidental idea, from who has seen a wheel in the movies or in a museum :P, you throw the bucket in the water and -hop, magically- it cames back full of water...but IT IS NOT LIKE THIS!!! There is no nice youngh woman with long skirt and singing happy taking water from a wheel....there is ME, almost inside the wheel, sweating and thinking the right way to do a simple thing.
I tryed to pick up water but me best result was 4 centimeters. I decided that me and the bucket we have some problem of relationship -maybe it is a cultural gap??- because i asked it to go INTO the water and came back full BUT it decided to float ON the water, peacefully!!
I desisted and come back to my laptop, that i know -more or less- as it works.

Displaced persons from Congo to North Angola

Caused by a politico-diplomatic problem between the Democratic Republic of Congo (ex Zaire) and the Republic of Angola, the RDC is expulsing about 16000 angolans living in the border areas of Congo for more than 20 years.
From a day to another, the Congo's pushed the population out of its houses and out of the country.
The persons had to leave without the possibility of carring so many things and take care of their houses and animals. The movement of persons started to arrive in the north of Angola some days ago. The question will be a new humanitarian emergency unknowed to the international community but helped by the local organisations (caritas has already started to work).
Movement of persons will concern also the area in which I'll work from wensday.
Let's see what happen.


Article from the "Jornal de Angola" of 11-10-09 (portuguis language):


Angolanos expulsos passam dos 16 mil
Víctor Mayala | Luvo -
 
 O número de angolanos expulsos da RDC a partir dos postos fronteiriços da província do Zaire ultrapassou os 16 mil, segundo fonte da Angop. A região do Luvo, com mais de 10 mil, é a que regista a maior concentração de cidadãos nacionais que viviam no país vizinho.
São famílias inteiras que regressam com os bens que puderam transportar com as próprias mãos. Muitas delas viviam na RDC há mais de 30 anos, e agora são recebidas pelas autoridades do Luvo, que as encaminham para os centros de acolhimento, no posto fronteiriço local, e para a aldeia “Mamã Rosa”, onde o Ministério da Assistência e Reinserção Social criou condições logísticas e de habitabilidade.
Cidadãos ouvidos pela nossa equipa de reportagem relatam que nas zonas em que viviam, a própria polícia congolesa desencadeou uma recolha de casa em casa, sem que lhes fosse dado tempo de levar os seus haveres.
Alberto Simão, de 56 anos de idade e natural da Caála, província do Huambo, conta que o responsável da comuna de Songolola, região de Baixo Congo, deu 24 horas para que todos os angolanos ali residentes regressassem ao seu país de origem. “Não fui a tempo de recolher todas as minhas coisas, apenas arrumei algumas roupas, porque não podia levar muito peso, porque vim a pé de Matadi até à fronteira do Luvo”, conta.
Lando Pedro, também expulsa, mãe de dois filhos, um com apenas seis meses, lembra as peripécias por que passaram durante os dois dias de caminhada até atingirem a fronteira do Luvo, sem dinheiro para poder comprar alimentação. “Fomos vaiados nos bairros congoleses por onde passamos. Muitos congoleses proprietários de viaturas, não aceitavam que os seus carros nos transportassem”, relata sem esconder a tristeza.
Entretanto, algumas instituições religiosas vão se mobilizando para acudir as populações em dificuldade. O padre André Justino Futy, da Caritas de Angola, e o pastor Gaspar Quicuambi, da Igreja Universal do Reino de Deus, deslocaram-se ao Luvo para entregar produtos alimentares


domenica 11 ottobre 2009

First impression on Angola



Here I'm in Angola, after a long period in UK for my Development program finally i can start this experience of volunteer work in a project that fights malaria.
I arrived yesterday, early in the morning.
The city of Luanda is a surprise, of the 15-16(some database says 19) millions of Angolans, 8 leave in Luanda, the capital.
Arriving in the night you can see the lights of some big building (a stadium, i discover) and a lot of small small lights, as a cemetery, or a chaotic and massive amount of candles. Instead it is Luanda...as i discover with the day light, a big amount of small houses -??- one next to the other, with small soil street. The poor part is in contrast with the new and rich town, big street in concrete, big houses -unbelievable but some are build as “chalet” of Switzerland- and a lot of new buildings and structures that will host the football teams for the African coup 2010.
Today I had a tour in the city by car (i was coming back again from the airport) and the driver took inside the slums...red soil everywhere, a big “river” at the border of the street, where people wash things and throw inside water, and i think also “toilet waste”.
Some small business, a lot of “electric generator” shops -no electricity-, many “car repairs” and street food sellers (water, fruits and sometimes also barbecue meat).
It was nice to go inside the town also if the fear of being stopped and hijacked was always there -actually they said that happens in the night and in the smaller streets-.
I'm hosted in the ADPP headquarters in Ramiro (near Luanda),along the cost and just in front of t"o saco de flamingos” (the bay of flamingo – a kind of bird-)...where the ocean came inside the land and the migration birds stop for the reproduction and to rest.
A wonderful place where the bird watching is really easy to do.
The bay is full of crabs that dig holes in the sand making a strange nice effect.
Everywhere there are enormous, but really, enormous baobab (embondeiro in the local language), with not so many leaves but still some fruits.
They look likes houses, with a big base and small naked branches. The fruit is big and heavy, so big that could be dangerous if happens to fallow on your head (but i don't know if someone stop under the baobab :P ) and when they are dry you can use the internal part to make a sort of juice or ice cream (i don't know the exact process but I'll learn more with the time).
The weather is not so hot, because the rain season is coming...but i hope it could keep not raining a little bit,I'm just arrived!!



It is difficult to explain this place, i have just a positive first impression, full of things that i see. With the time I'll be able to give a better idea of Angola. :)

(In the pictures: first sunset in the flamingo's bay, second: baobab tree)

martedì 6 ottobre 2009

Mafia and Amoral familism (1)

Who have not seen “The Godfather" maybe cannot understand why many times i have to explain “what” mafia is and “what it is not” to foreign. Mafia cannot be perceived as “ cool” mystery and spy story, with great characters, “non-moral” sense of family and ethic... it is something different.

I found, in these days, a new article on Roberto Saviano (author of Gomorra, a book of a criminal organization similar to mafia called camorra).
He is leaving escorted by policemen and bodyguard because he told the truth about a criminal organization that lead business in our democratic and developed country and now...he leaves in danger of death.
As him, many others, that are fighting or were fighting mafia, camorra and others ('Ndrangheta,...), are in danger of death or are death.
The mafia is something that push you in front of the wall, make you turn down the head...you follow or you die.
It is, with camorra and others, one of the first economic power in Italy, leading the business of drugs, “slaves”, “bitches” and guns from Africa, south America east Europe; recycling of dangerous “rubbish” for big enterprises and other countries (ex. Start to research about Ilaria Alpi and Miran Hrovatin , and you will discover how also the “business of rubbish” can kill many persons), and recycling of money in clean activities.
Mafia and camorra are able to make disappear children, because related to persons that are enemies or just decided to collaborate with the justice, are able to organize a car-bomb to destroy their enemy, and not avoid to commit massacre to kill just one person while he/she is in the middle of 10 or 100 others. Mafia and camorra have the same behaviour of a “terrorist group”, just that, we can say, they want to achieve an “economic” issue and not a politic one.

So mafia is an organization that play a “one shot game”, not leaving space to the communication and the development on the community in which it acts.
The structure of mafia (camorra, etc.) is similar to one of a state, that's why many historic and specialist say that it is a form of “state in the state”, it means that in Italy we have a Democratic government elected by citizens and ...the mafia's government, not elected and “hidden”.

Of course you cannot find that in the newspapers, or in the TV's, and the governmental will says “no!!it is not true!, but when a part of the country is “governed” from some power that is different from the “official” one what can we say? That there is a second power, locally established, that control the “land” and manage it. Oh my god, so there is a mafia's government in Sicily? No, not officially, but if to get a job, to build an house, to obtain an authorization, to keep on with your business you have to pay a “tax" to someone that is part of a criminal organization...you are not free and you are not obeying to the “official laws” but to a local power that is able to decide and make you following its decisions, if not you are sanctioned.
So it is a power in a power! A sort of small internal state.

It is difficult to explain how this organization are formed, from where they born and why.

It is a social behaviour linked with a big historical mistake, the one's coming from the unity of Italy, and maybe also before, when the savoy's kingdom unified the country without being able to change the situation of poverty and non development in the south, and also being able to have a real control on it.
The south was “ungoverned” as before and the situation let space to local “representatives” to take power and establish a sort of order, starting to collaborate with the National Government and doing, in the same time, it own business.

A basic idea of what could lead to mafia and camorra existence is a theory of a sociologist, Edward C. Banfield, that in his book Moral Basis of a Backward Society (1958) explain the idea of “amoral familism” (Familismo amorale) , analysing a rural community in the south of Italy.
The theory explain how in some parts of the world(as in the south of Italy) the community are not linked by political and national issues but by “blood stream”. In this theory the family acts looking at her own interest, before that at the communitarian interest-benefit. The sense of family is “non-moral” (without moral) because the family acts not related to the public aims and the community, as the opposite of the idea of family as base of the “national family”. So the categories of “good” and “bad” have sense inside the family, between their members, but not in the relationship family-outside world. In that way the community is unable to develop itself because it is blocked by its internal nucleus, the family. It is linked to the natural state of Hobbes, the one in which persons are as “homo homini lupus”. Instead of an individual man the Banfield's theory is linked to nuclear family acting for their immediate and material interest, and , in this way, acting also against the others.
In this form it appears difficult to build a society interested in the general development and benefits, and it seems easier to develop a form of criminal organization that it is based on the idea of family, not any more “nuclear” (mum,dad,sons) but bigger and more articulated. The mafia is a “family”, organized and ruled by internal laws of respects and hierarchy, that take care of its member when they are “respectful” of it and support them also in the moment of difficulties (ex. The family of a person affiliate to mafia that goes to jail, is supported by the organization with a monthly salary).


(./. to be continued)